Archer Tales, Part Deux

23 Thursday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Alterations, Fittings

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

Archer button up, Button up shirt, Button-down shirt, Grainline Studios

I got the back pleat right this time. hehe

Here are the first and second muslins side by side:

I tried to go with small changes so not to get ahead of myself.

Here are the new alterations:
1. Added 1/4″ to back hip seam allowances tapering it to the waist.
2. Fast Fit big bust alteration. I think I added 1/2″ but honestly I’m new to this way of adding to the bust and I’m not all that sure. I did end up adding to the width of the front but there’s a way to close up the front so you don’t have to if you don’t want or need it.
3. I did pinch out 1/4″ off the front side of the sleeve so it would match the armhole where I had pinched out some in the first muslin.
4. I raised the underarm of both front and back pieces by 1/4″. The front got that because I had done a forward shoulder alt on muslin 5. Then, I just had to match up front and back. I didn’t take any off the back shoulder.

It still pulls across the front a bit but I’m also wearing a foam cup bra that adds to my full bust measurement. I’m guessing with my other bra I won’t get the pulling.

I think I’m ready to cut into my gauze. What do you think? Would any other change be negligible?

Should I do a deeper sway back/flat butt alteration?

Archer Tales

22 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Alterations, Fittings

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Archer, Button up shirt, Button-down shirt, Grainline Studio

I bought the Archer pattern a week or so ago and I’ve been really excited to try it out.

Last night I worked out a first muslin. I did very little initially so I could see what I’d need to do. I started with the size 12 based on my high bust measurement. I did pin the tissue to see the fit and made a couple of changes.

-I pinched out 1/2″ for a sway back
-I shaved off 1/4″ for a forward shoulder
-On the muslin itself I pinched out an armscye dart which I duplicated to 0 on the pattern
-I added 1/4″ to both front and back from bottom hem to the waist shaping

Based on the muslin, I’m planning on:

-Adding bust room a la Sandra Betzina. Do you see the similar drag lines on my muslin?

This is how she shows how to do a bust adjustment. I like it because one version doesn’t add width.

-Add another bit to the back hip area. Maybe 1/4″ or 3/8″ to each side seams.
-I took out the pinch from the front armhole but didn’t take out the corresponding amount from the sleeve. I need to do this:

-Do I do a narrow shoulder alteration on the front? The alteration would look like this:

How does my muslin look? I’m willing to do another muslin so that I can have a well fitting TNT pattern.

Sew Bossy: Pink Sunshine Top

22 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Completed Project, Sewcialists

≈ 31 Comments

Tags

HotPatterns, sewbossy, sewing knits, Sunshine top

So there was this thing. This internet thing that I read about was where two sewing bloggers swapped projects, each of them bossing the other into making a particular pattern with a particular fabric and so forth. Here’s Oona’s project. Here is Heather Lou’s project. Go read about the Sew Bossy Initiative at Closet Case Files.

Heather, Gillian and I swapped projects. Gillian sent a project to Heather; Heather to me; and I to Gillian.

Heather sent me this Hotpatterns pattern: The Sunshine Top! And she sent me tea and this cool card, alongside a love letter with sewing notes. Yay! No, I’m not reading you my love letter.

She also sent me this awesome pink with white dots knit. Double yay!!

Heather’s notes were great. She’s made this top several times and she’s seen the alterations I make so I just followed along making the neck band more like a U so that it wouldn’t gape and choosing my size based on my high bust because apparently these patterns run on the roomier side.

I went for the size corresponding my 38″ high bust and the only other alteration I made was to make the sleeves wider. I ended up making a little tuck at the top of the sleeve cap to deal with the excess fabric. I could’ve been more diligent with my sleeve alteration- maybe next time.

I also didn’t hem the sleeves or the bottom of the blouse. I’m fine with it like this. Heather suggested making sleeve bands and another band for the top hem. Great idea but not this time. Yes, I got lazy. My sewing time isn’t what it used to be.

Why do I get so chatty before showing you pictures. All you want to see is pictures!! I swear I don’t know what got into me. And, yes, these are the good pictures. Bwahahaha! Hey, if I can’t have fun with these I don’t know what I’m gonna do.

pink sunshine top back pink sunshine top goofy face

Look Ma! No muslin! Thanks again to Heather for her notes. She saved me a muslin.

The shorts are blogged here and while the fit back then left a little to be desired, now they’re too loose and the crotch is way low and the fit is funkier than when I first made them. But, they were my first pair of shorts and I was happy just to have made them. You know that feeling, right?

I’m already prepped to do another SewBossy project with Sew Busy Lizzy. I have the pattern I’m sending her but I need to find the right fabric. Ooh, this is gonna be good!

Hummingbird Skirt & Cabarita Top

21 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Cake Patterns, Completed Project

≈ 30 Comments

Tags

Hummingbird skirt, RiFF patterns, sewing cake

Some of you already know that I help Steph with shipping Cake Patterns to those of you living in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s about time for another big shipment of patterns and I want to show you the Hummingbird skirt (orange view) and one of the new RiFF patterns from Cake, the Cabarita Top.

Disclosure: I didn’t get paid to sew these garments nor to blog about them. I sew them because I like sewing Steph’s patterns and I blog because I enjoy sharing what I’ve made. I did receive the patterns free of charge so you can take my review with a grain of salt, something you should do with any review.

Let me start talking about the skirt. Much like other Cake patterns, it’s customizable. You start with your measurements and connect the dots to create your unique pattern. The skirt sits just below the natural waist and is a quick make, allowing for a additional detailing. I went for the straight skirt since I knew I’d get more immediate wear out of it. I also went for a stretch denim. I haven’t worked with stretch wovens very much and I should’ve started with a smaller size but I did take in the side seams to fit it a bit better.

The Cabarita top has been one of those tops I’ve seen on Steph’s blog for a while now and I’ve been wanting to make it badly. Again with the customization! It’s genius. It is drafted with zero ease so I opted for my exact measurements. You can always choose negative ease or positive ease. My sleeves are the size that went with my bust size, fyi. I find them roomy- which I prefer. I’m always adding sleeve ease to the non Cake patterns I work with, so thanks Steph. I also went for the longer sleeve option. Love it. Keep in mind the RiFF patterns are still straightforward but the instructions are in text only. Even being a super visual person, I got through the pattern with ease and in only a couple of hours.

Arms raised I get some pulling but it’s from the 0 ease. As you can see in the rest of the pics, the top is very comfortable. The striped knit is from Michael Levine Fabrics. No pilling so far.

hbird and cabarita full body front

I love how the collar ends up looking in the contrasting knit. It’s a super soft rayon knit that I bought at Vogue Fabrics when I was up there a couple of months ago. I’m going to be washing this top on a gentle cycle to keep the rayon from pilling or otherwise getting too angry with me.

hbird and cabarita full body back

I love an interesting back. Actually this top gives you front and back interest. Even my husband had a big wow moment when he saw the back. The skirt you can hardly notice because it’s an every day skirt and it’s a solid, which you know I like. The stretch denim I also got from ML Fabrics.

hbird and cabarita crouch sitting

I’m showing you sitting down pictures so you can really see the skirt length. It’s easy to lengthen the skirt before you cut but just keep sitting in mind.

Hello pockets and topstitching! You’re gonna love the pockets. They come together in such a cool way. I’ve used a quilting cotton I’ve had in my stash for a year or more. It’s a nice cotton but sadly nobody but me will see it.

Hbird and cabarita back

The back, again, cos I can’t stop staring at it. The stripes come together in a chevron and with a little patience you can get them to line up perfectly. The skirt has an invisible zipper which has become by installation preference.

I completely plan on making these two patterns up again. The top came together easily and quickly once I decided on my size, which means you could even jump in without making a muslin- just don’t go for the nicest knit in your stash for the first one. I did and I’m not sorry. I’ve already been wearing this outfit a lot and combining the two pieces with other of my handmades.

If you want to buy these patterns, you can go to Steph’s Cake shop on Etsy (paper and download patterns), on Craftsy (download patterns only) or on PatternReview. These patterns have not been released yet but will be shipping as soon as we get them.

What other ways can you see making the Cabarita top? Mixing prints? Two different colored solids? All print?

My Color Palette and Shoe Shopping

18 Saturday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Accessories

≈ 21 Comments

Tags

color palette, shoes, wedges

Twitter can be such a magical place. One minute you’re talking about colors you like to buy, what “season” you are color-wise and then bam!, you get an email with a personalized color chart from Gillian.

Isn’t that cool!? I’d say she’s got me pegged. What do you think? Is there a color she and I missed in this? A color I wear all the time?

What am I doing with this?

It’s helping me be realistic about fabric purchases. I often look and buy fabric I don’t end up using because it’s just not something I’d wear. Sometimes I try to go out of my color comfort zone but it’s a balance.

I’ve been window shoe shopping lately, trying to find some shoes that will work with the colors I have in my wardrobe. I’m trying to get out of my brown and black shoe thing. Or my “I need all the red shoes” thing.

Here are some shoes I’m looking at buying. Not all of them, though I did have quite the shoe collection before settling down with kids. I got rid of all of them. I don’t like holding on to stuff for long. Plus, there are always more shoes.

I’m using the color palette Gillian made for me to help narrow down the color choices. I’m also trying to imagine what clothes I’d wear these shoes with… though I’m not so good at that. I’m better at just buying all the shoes. If I don’t have an outfit for the shoes, I can always sew an outfit.

sold out!

I tried these on at a DSW and didn’t like them on.

I know yellow isn’t even in my palette that Gillian created for me but I’m drawn to these colors right now, for Spring and Summer, more than other colors.

I’m loving this last wedge- Yes! I’m a wedge girl!- but with the city sketched in the side of the wedge. Squee!! I love them.

What’s your favorite kind of shoe? Are you all shoe’d up for Spring? Any new shoes your eyeing?

Swimwear Inspiration: Geek Out!

17 Friday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Sewalongs

≈ 19 Comments

Tags

Swimalong, SwimAlong 2013

In researching geeky swimwear, most of what I saw didn’t appeal to me. I’m not into wearing a bikini and I want to make it myself so the suits that have a specific print on them aren’t gonna work for me.

Sadly, this Tetris suit will never be mine. Nor will the game controller suit I found. The buttons were on the lower half of the body and, well, I don’t think I could wear the suit without giggling all the time. What’s the difference between that and me normally? Yeah, not much.

But, what about playing around with a Wonder Woman theme? I know this one is meant for a kid but I like the whole suit. I can even see it as a grown-up suit.

But, really, this next Wonder Woman suit is adorable and I would totally wear it.

For sale on Etsy by meshalo

I’ve never painted fabric but I’ve always wanted to and this Tardis swimsuit makes me want to even more. This woman is amazing.

Click on the image for original source

If you’re going for something inspired by a superhero or a game character, you can take their colors and colorblock your suit. All you’d need to remember is to keep track of which suit pieces need seam allowances and which pieces are which colors.

What kind of geek/nerd/hobbiest/misanthrope are you? Can you imagine the great conversations you could get into when going to the beach or pool wearing your nerdy swimwear?

Anyone have any geeky ideas you’re ready to try out?

UPDATE: How could I forget Kitschy Coo’s Wonder Woman suit? You rock woman!!

Sewcialists Logo Contest WINNER

15 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Sewcialists

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Sewcialists emblem competition

Thanks to everyone who visited the jury blogs to cast your vote. We had a total of 191 votes. That’s wonderful! I know it doesn’t mean we had 191 individuals voting but it’s still nice to see that a lot of you voted multiple times. We appreciate you taking the time.

Thanks to Make Magazine the winner will get

A 1 year subscription to Make magazine generously offered by our official sponsor Make

Thanks to individual donors (this is not coming from Make: Magazine), the winner will also receive:

A $100 cash prize
A custom ipad sleeve

I know you want to know who won. I am glad it was so hard for all of you to decide. That is a good thing to tell these awesome designers! They did such a good job it was hard for all of you to choose.

Winner: Joost

1st Runner up: Anne

2nd Runner up: Sabina

A big congratulations to Joost and all designers for their hard work.

What are you going to do with our new Sewcialists logo? First, head over to Joost’s site and choose your colors.

Then what?

Put it on your blog
Make an iron-on transfer and iron it on a t-shirt or a tote
Sketch it on your Trapper Keeper
Stencil it on your drum head.

The options are endless. What are you going to do with it?

UPDATE: Joost has asked that the prize money be sent to a charity. We’ve chosen From Boston to Bindis. Check out the Indiegogo. It’s a wonderful project. There are 30 days left to donate thru Indiegogo.

Burda Trousers in Motion

14 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Completed Project

≈ 15 Comments

Tags

Burda Leather Trousers 12/2012 #124, Burda pattern, leather substitutions

I’m learning how to make pants. I started a pair maybe a month ago and I thought, based on the fit promises, that I’d be off to a great start but alas I stitched them up till the waistband, tried them on, took the side seams in, whimpered, and threw them on the WIP chair.

Then one day browsing Burda Style, I saw these interesting trousers:

click on the image to go to Burda Style

I’m guessing the blingy top caught my attention at first as well as the moon shoes but finally I saw the trousers. OoooOOoooo. I made all kinds of noises.

Look at the trouser off the leaning tower of model. Lots of details…but it was for leather and I don’t have any leather/faux leather nor was I eager to buy any to test out my pants fitting abilities.

I opted instead for a ponte knit from Michael Levine. I’ll let you know how it wears.

I like that I now own two pairs of knit pants. I know! I really just prefer trousers. Y’know, life office wear. Suitings, boucle…all the things that a stay at home mom “shouldn’t” wear. Bah! I laugh in the face of these rules.

So, here ya go. Pants!

I know. I didn’t give you a pic of me staring straight at the camera. I figure if you saw me in person, most likely, I’d be doing one of these things. The fit isn’t perfect but it’s really close.

To get the fit:

Started with the largest size, a 44.
Took in 1.5″ at the back crotch hook- though next time 1″ should be enough- which corrected the pattern for my very flat seat.
Took in the back seam by 3/4″.
Took in side seams by 1″ all the way down to zipper.
Took in 1/2″ at the inseams all the way down to the hem.

I did make notes on my pattern. Next time, I’ll make the darts shallower to decrease the curve I just don’t need there.

Will I make this pattern up again? Yes I will! I do want to make these trousers in a stretch twill. I like the ponte but I see why I’m not a knit pants girl. I like the comfort but I like a more rigid pant in general.

The Burda instructions were actually decent to follow. These trousers are sewn up with alterations in mind. I say that because the waist band is attached to each leg individually and then the crotch is stitched up, making an alteration much easier to do. I stitched up the crotch, joined the waistband and then attached it to the pants. Mostly because I was tired of reading the instructions. Bad stitcher. Yeah yeah. Lock me up.

I have a stretch twill I got from Fabric Mart. I’m thinking it would look cool as these trousers. I’m going to wear this ponte pair and see how the fit works after they get worn a bit.

What other kinds of fabrics would work well with this pattern?

Spring Daytripper Bag

11 Saturday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Completed Project

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Day bag, Daytripper, dog under my desk

I bought the Daytripper from Erin at Dog Under My Desk in early December. Over the next couple of months, I posted snippits of work on it here and there. I was so intimidated with the idea of making this bag. I don’t know why. You know I love her Wristlet (don’t forget the wristlet that started it all) and Two Zip Hipster patterns and they both came out really nice on my first try. Logically, I had nothing to fear. Her patterns and the detailed instructions she provides are top notch.

Each stage of construction has clear photographs that help you along the way. Erin has a knack for reaching out to those of us making her bags using different learning styles. She offers photographs. On the photographs there are key directions to the step and then she spells it out in words. Arrows remind you which way to sew for a perfect bag and before and after shots help you envision the process.

I’m not a bag maker so I really appreciate these kind of directions. I know I can make garments and I fit them and all that but making bags (as well as quilting) is a different kind of sewing.

Swimalong Inspiration: Victorian Bathers

10 Friday May 2013

Posted by Leila in Costumes, Design, Sewalongs, Sewcialists

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

period swimwear, Swimalong, SwimAlong 2013, Victorian costume, Victorian patterns, Victorian Swim costume, Victorian Swimwear

Let’s go for a timey wimey trip here to the glorious Victorian era. This period comprises a huge range of looks. Wikipedia is going to help us out a bit. Thanks Wikipedia editors.

The Victorian era of British history was the period of Queen Victoria‘s reign from 20 June 1837 until her death on 22 January 1901. It was a long period of peace, prosperity, refined sensibilities and national self-confidence for Britain. Some scholars date the beginning of the period in terms of sensibilities and political concerns to the passage of the Reform Act 1832.

The era was preceded by the Georgian period and followed by the Edwardian period. The latter half of the Victorian age roughly coincided with the first portion of the Belle Époque era of continental Europe and the Gilded Age of the United States.

The bathing suits look like garments to our modern eyes but remember that they wore lots and lots of layers so one or two layers of fabric was closer to being in their underwear. You can read more about Victorian bathers in Victoriana Magazine.

I know a lot of people think of the Victorians as all being in super tight laced corsets, unable to breathe and fainting when they got excited or over tired. In every age there are always people who reject the norm, who refuse to wear the trend and those who wear either last year’s fashions or are fashion forward. It wasn’t any different in Victorian times. There were women who didn’t like corsets.

Also, toward the end of this Victorian age, exercise became more common and there were corsets made that gave the wearer more range of movement.

Fashion-era points out that it wasn’t until Britain got a railway did the Victorians decide to visit the seaside. It’s amazing to see how the railroad impacted to many aspects of our lives.

It wasn’t until late in the Victorian age that you start to see short cap sleeves. Over all, swimwear didn’t change all that much in those 64 years, except that it got a little shorter and they started to show more ankle but it wasn’t until the Edwardian era that you see sleeveless and shorter skirts as bathing suits.

You could go for a pattern like this one from the Mantua Maker. I’d just recommend going for the sleeves unless you’re imagining that you’re one of the fashion forward Victorians.

Or you can make do with patterns you have on hand like many have done already. Check out this one. She used this Folkwear pattern and improvised a skirt. Well done!

I absolutely adore these suits! Oh, the stripes!!

Victorian bathers were made of silk taffeta (gah! I know) and mohair (jaw drop! I know!).

Recollections is a site that carries ready-made bathing costumes. I love this red one, though they make them out of cotton. I don’t see any made of taffeta.

I could’ve sworn there was a Steampunk con that had as a component to the fashion show, a swimwear fashion show but it was a couple of years ago. It got me thinking I needed a Victorian swim costume. Maybe one day. These are just so adorable.

Tell me your thoughts on the Victorian age? Did you learn anything today at the Swimalong? Any components of the images shared today inspire you to make your own swimsuit?