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Update: There should be 4 photo collages below. If you can’t see them all, check out my Flickr.

I’m starting a new experiment. It has to do with cutting a smaller size for my back. I’m still in FBA land, but cutting a smaller back will hopefully eliminate all the bunching I’ve been having to take out and save me time during the fitting stage.

Here you can see, side by side, the new version of Gertie’s Portrait Blouse (though honestly, without the design darts in the front and back, it feels like a tee…which is totally fine) next to the first try with this pattern. The first try was done in a voile while the subsequent tries were done in knits, to maximize success. I used the size 10 for the front and the size 6 for the back on the red blouse. Can you tell the difference?

Now, I kept wanting to do this smaller back experiment so I whipped up this red Portrait Blouse, without the darts, in a knit. Comments on fit or wearability? I absolutely love the side view where you can see that I’m on to something with the smaller back thing. Smooth!

This is what I’m dubbing my Tarzan top. I’ve actually always wanted to make a one shoulder top. The fabric is from the April Johnston Spring collection. I got it in the remnants bin and there was 3/4 yard so I figured I should go for something that used the least amount of yardage. I used Simplicity 2364 and cut the size 10 for the back and since I bought only the envelope with the smaller sizes, I graded the size 14 up to a 20. I didn’t add an FBA because it’s a knit. The instructions called for gathering the shoulder. I left it un-gathered for muslins sake.

Cutting a smaller back was looking like a good solution so I cut another of Gertie’s Portrait Blouses, again without the darts. I’m quite happy with the results of this experiment. For the middle picture, my daughter wanted me to take a picture with her kitty.

Things of note:

  1. I might still be needing to take out some length from the back at the waist.
  2. The Tarzan top could’ve used some more room in the back waist.
  3. I still need to cut shoulders for the smaller, back, size. Matching up the shoulders during the cutting process and truing the seams taught me that.
  4. I still need to take a bit out of the front upper chest for the gaping above my chest, a normal hollow created by a larger chest.

Any other changes you see that I should be making? Do you cut a different size for your front compared to your back?

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