LBD #1: Cutting the Fabric

Here’s the dress in the fashion fabric. Finally! I swear if you’re anxious about cutting into nice fabric, spending several weeks working with the less-than-inspiring muslin will definitely give you the eagerness to cut into the most expensive material on the market.

You’re still only seeing the front pinned to the form so you are probably noticing loads of wrinkling. I did adjust a lot before the final stitching. I’m just trying to build suspense. Is it working?

Back to working the neckline. Since taking this picture, I cut the opening by 1/2 inch. As you may be able to see in the photo above, there is wrinkling just below the bottom of the v-neck which was eased by letting the v go a little lower. It’s still at the level of modesty I prefer.

The zipper. My friend and member of an unknown-to-her sewing support geek squad, Meg suggested I skip the hand basting of the invisible zipper and use basting tape. Baste it and sew it in with an invisible zipper foot- which I don’t have but could have borrowed from her if I still lived in Vermont. Sigh.

I did hand baste the zipper but after sewing in the zipper with my regular zipper foot I got an uneven zipper as you can see in the photo below.

The right side (or the side on “top” in the photo above) shows how the two backs don’t line up. So, I took my seam ripper and ripped the sucker out. Gently, of course.

The second time (and I could have had a third, but I let it go) I used the basting tape and my regular zipper foot (mental note: invest in an invisible zipper foot before installing the next invisible zipper) and while I did everything in my power to get the tops to match, I still had one side end up a little off. I’m starting to think I might have done well to do a stay stitch before starting all these zipper efforts.

Looks decent. But what would the members of the sewing support geek squad say? Check the comments in a couple of days.

It could look better.

In the photo above, you can see how the right side has a little bulge near the zipper stop. I managed to ease it in with some careful hand stitching. This angle delivers a more forgiving story.

Lastly, the shoulders and side seams were stitched and now I return to the dilemma of the neck opening, In the following picture, you can see my thinking in regards to a facing and an interfacing.

The fabric is so opaque that the white interfacing won’t be an issue (no see through) but I’d love to work with the more appropriate material- a black interfacing.

What I also might do next time is to underline the whole dress. It’s quite different from lining a dress in that you work the underlining as if it were one fabric with the fashion fabric. I’ll get into the pros of each method (interlining, backing, underlining, interfacing, lining) and try to demystify their overlapping qualities and uses.

One of the things I love about sewing, and my friend (and another member of the sewing support geek squad) Kate reminded me of it the other day: You do what works.

Next post should conclude the work on this dress. That will include the finishing on the neck and the final step on the kick pleat, which really only needs opening.

2 thoughts on “LBD #1: Cutting the Fabric

    • Leila says:

      Thanks for coming over to see my blog. I was excited to find you since I’m also trying to squeeze every sewing opportunity out of the day. I’ve got 2 small kids, who will learn how to sew, I tell you! 😉

      As far as the dresses are concerned, I’m going for the classic look (glad you saw that- and like it).

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