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I decided to go the pattern route again instead of draping something but after two plus days of altering this pattern, I’m almost certain I’m going to drape something for the next dress.

I started by choosing the pattern sized to my high bust measurement so that it would fit me in the shoulders. I still have to do several adjustments but this starting point gives me a better fit overall.

Here’s the list of my tissue alterations:

1. Add width to the back waist.

2. Adjust for narrow shoulders.

3. Lowered bust apex.

4. Full bust adjustment which was pretty involved with this princess seamed pattern.

5. Adjust for short waist.

6. Trued all new curves and lines as I went along as well as added tissue where needed.

Yeah, it’s a lot. Hopefully it’s worth all the time. It’s hard to tell since I’m working with the tissue only and my fabric is pretty thick in comparison. I am planning on underlining it.

I’m going to use an underlining method I learned from Sandra Betzina, author of Power Sewing. She suggests adding 5/8″ to your pattern so you can sew the fashion fabric with the lining, turn them inside out and then sew them, as one piece, to the rest of the dress pattern pieces.

That make any sense? I’ll have to show pictures when I get down to sewing it all together. Never fear, Leila is here! (Sewing is my super power- or so I think.)

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