Plaid Dress Fail

Remember this dress I was set out to make?

Well, I started out by working on the pattern alterations and did my normal FBA (Full Bust Adjustment, for those of you late to my party). This pattern comes with 4 different cup sizes for the bodice so I started with the largest one- and yes, I did think I needed more room.

Now that it’s done, I’m thinking of doing a plain muslin with the D cup bodice but altering other aspects of the pattern.

For instance, I somehow managed to make the dress both too large and too tight. It’s too large in the front because of the FBA I did. An FBA also adds inches to the front of your dress, which I thought I wanted but now that it’s done, I see it wasn’t necessary.

It also turned out to bee too tight in the armholes, which is probably because I used my High Bust measurement, giving me a snug armhole, which I like. However, with the added sleeve, I needed a little more room for my arm to, you know, move freely and stuff.

I cringe every time I look at this photo, so do be kind if you decided to make a comment or suggest a fix:

Plaid Dress

It’s so not flattering for an inverted triangle as myself to have this open of a top:

Plaid Dress

Here you can see how much extra fabric there actually is on the skirt. The bodice just makes me look bigger, period.
Plaid Dress

I’m gonna finish sewing the bodice lining to the skirt and then throw it at a second hand store. Is that mean? I think someone with a different body than mine might actually look good in this. Really.

So, why share this with you?

I’m proud of how lined up my plaids are, even on the zipper:
Plaid Dress

I did my first bagged-in hem. The easiest hem to do and so nice looking. Plus, the whole dress is lined. It looks nice from a seamstress point of view but not from a fit POV.

I like that I’m stubborn enough to go back to this pattern and work on it again and see if I can actually get it to fit right. I really need heavier weight muslin cos the stuff I have is a lot thinner and won’t behave the same as, say, this wool fabric I used.

Tomorrow I hope to pick up a book on grading patterns. I hope that reading helps me here, and with other vintage patterns I own.


5 thoughts on “Plaid Dress Fail

  1. Jodi says:

    You really did an excellent job on the plaid alignment and zipper! You SHOULD be proud of yourself. I’m totally impressed.

    It think the problem with the dress is this, If you look at the pattern drawing, the side contrast is visible at the bust. Because of your FBA, you can’t see the side contrast panels on your dress which exaggerates whatever fit problems there are. I don’t know how to fix it… but I think that might be visually what is going on. Make sense?

  2. Leila says:

    I was seeing the same thing. I’m gonna muslin up a bodice without the FBA but if it’s too tight, I’ll do an FBA and make sure I add to the side panels cos otherwise you miss that detail and those contrasting pieces are what originally drew me to this dress to begin with. Thanks for the constructive comment.

  3. Jenny S says:

    In addition to the things I totally agree with above, I think that the neckline on the pattern drawing is more pointed in the center and that sort of shaping would work better with a full bust than the rounded neckline you did.

    At least this project proves that if you have problems with a project they are because of your sewing skills. The construction of the garment is superb.

  4. Leila says:

    Thanks Jenny for the comment. I agree with the mild V-neck. So, so true. I usually go for V-necks. Another frustrating part of my sewing journey (do I sound like a hippie or what?!) is that I can’t quite translate what I want in my head onto paper, and then I can’t translate a fashion drawing to my body. I only get it once it’s done. I am glad I even have the time/make the time to sew this kind of stuff up so quickly. I think it took me a day and a half to sew it up- of course, once the bodice alterations were done. I only didn’t do the last of the hand-stitching on the same day cos I got so down on myself. But yay for the next post! cos I figured out a way to work the alterations.

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