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There was some talk about the gussets for Mantle #0189 on the 1912 Titanic Sewing Project Facebook page. Once one of the sewing group participants posted a photo of how the gussets were sewn on her mantle and that’s when I finally got it. See, gussets on sleeves don’t always go in the same way. This 1912 pattern goes about it in a really straightforward and, in my opinion, easy way.

Here’s a video you can watch so you can see where you sew. After the video, I’ve added some more step by step photos just in case the video doesn’t do the trick.

Now, I’ll show you more photos of inserting the gussets. Like I mentioned in the short video above, I did cut out all the squares for the gussets.

Interfacing gussets sewn in with wrong sides together.

Prepping the fashion fabric gusset.

Pinned one side of gusset.

Gusset pinned and ready for topstitching.

Fashion fabric gusset sewn in.

Sewing the lining from side to underarm, from number 20 to number 22. (I took pictures of the lining gussets at this point because I thought it might be easier to see.)

Gusset sewn. Photo taken from the right side.

From the right side of the finished mantle, here are the gussets all done. First, this is the side seam you stitch up.

You can see the gusset and how it is stitched right through the middle of the square pattern to create two triangles.

A little closer up.

I hope this helps anyone trying to figure out the gussets on this mantle. I’ll talk more about the final garment in my next post.

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