Archer Tales

I bought the Archer pattern a week or so ago and I’ve been really excited to try it out.

Last night I worked out a first muslin. I did very little initially so I could see what I’d need to do. I started with the size 12 based on my high bust measurement. I did pin the tissue to see the fit and made a couple of changes.

-I pinched out 1/2″ for a sway back
-I shaved off 1/4″ for a forward shoulder
-On the muslin itself I pinched out an armscye dart which I duplicated to 0 on the pattern
-I added 1/4″ to both front and back from bottom hem to the waist shaping

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Based on the muslin, I’m planning on:

-Adding bust room a la Sandra Betzina. Do you see the similar drag lines on my muslin?
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This is how she shows how to do a bust adjustment. I like it because one version doesn’t add width.

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-Add another bit to the back hip area. Maybe 1/4″ or 3/8″ to each side seams.
-I took out the pinch from the front armhole but didn’t take out the corresponding amount from the sleeve. I need to do this:
image

-Do I do a narrow shoulder alteration on the front? The alteration would look like this:
image

How does my muslin look? I’m willing to do another muslin so that I can have a well fitting TNT pattern.

11 thoughts on “Archer Tales

  1. Brooke says:

    Looks like a nice & useful mockup!

    I really need to finish tracing one of my rtw button-down shirts and test the pattern – I only started it 2 years ago, but now I need some more non-tshirts for my retail job.

      • Brooke says:

        I’ve only worked for 3 days at the store so far (all 3 last week), but I think I’ve adapted pretty well. It’s sort of a combination of all the types of jobs I have done in the past. I work again Saturday – the first sale day so we will see if it kills me!

        I started Shakespeare stuff this week and at least have my phone next to me while I’m sewing (thus the Instagraming & occasional tweet). I usually jump on Twitter at lunch, but it has seemed pretty quiet this week. I miss all you sewcialists too! Wish I could have you join me at work – we’d have so much fun!

      • Leila says:

        I’m sure you’ll rock the sale this weekend!

        Oh, right, Shakespeare. It would be fun to join you there. Oh, the chatting and the giggling.

  2. CGCouture says:

    Is the Sandra Betzina FBA the Y-shaped one that’s close to the center front?

    So, yeah. You are so productive it makes me sick!! How do you do it?! 😛 I’ve freshly washed 4 pieces of fabric and not cut into a single one of them! 😳

    • Leila says:

      Sandra does a slightly different bust adjustment. Not quite like the Palmer/Pletsch one a lot of people talk about.

      I’ve been super productive, yeah. I’m sick of it, too. haha. I wasn’t a bit ago. I just sat on my hands for a few months. It comes and goes. I was buying fabric and washing it and then moping around the house. haha

  3. Gjeometry says:

    I know pretty much nothing about an FBA, but have heard very good things about Sandra Betzina’s fitting and alterations help. And, that pic of the lady with the bird in the book. She seems so delighted to have an ill fitting top! 🙂

  4. Clipped Curves says:

    *Still giggling about the comment above – lady/ill-fitting top*
    I think you’ve identified all the areas that show up in your muslin photograph as requiring some changes. I’d like to see what Sandra says about a SBA (any advice on one technique that doesn’t alter the torso length?)

    • Leila says:

      Let me check what Sandra has to say but I believe you make the same cuts but then overlap the pattern tissue instead of making space, if that makes any sense. I’ll email you a pic.

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