Sewing for Fall 2013- The Jacket Edition

I’ve made only a couple of jackets and I’ve been sticking to the non-fitted kind for the moment so I can really get a handle on how jackets come together.

I already made McCalls 6611 and I was so proud of it but I had some pretty bad fitting issues. For one, the shoulders! Gah. Ok, we live and learn. I’d also need to do a forward shoulder alterations and take in and reshape the sleeve head.


and here’s the inspiration. I’d like to figure out how to change M6611’s collar, or actually add a collar like on this lovely blue leather jacket.


or I would go for the same pattern in a sweater knit. The site says it’s a poplin but I’m imagining it in a heavy knit.


There’s a trend I’ve read about for this Fall that includes oversized, rounded shouldered jackets and coats. Yup. It’s the 80s all over again. The 80s got me to wear oversized clothes once. Ever since I stopped wearing oversized clothes, I find I actually like how I look. So, oversized stuff, you don’t get to be on me.

I do have a bomber jacket from my college days and I just can’t get rid of it. I’m wearing it this year with …. fitted pants/trousers? (I’m having a hard time saying I’m gonna try skinny jeans or skinny anything.)

I have plans to make the Robson coat but I have no idea what color to make.


I don’t want to do it in black but then what? Eggplant is a favorite color and I do love a lot of blue shades…though really I should really be making a magenta or otherwise pink Robson. Yeaaah, that’s it. What about eggplant AND magenta. I’m liking this idea. We’ll see.

I know that’s just two jackets. I’ll probably add in another McCalls 6519 like my satin twill one I haven’t blogged about. I have this lovely wool suiting that would look gorgeous as this jacket. I might need to get some other fabric for the sleeves as I only own a yard of it. It was a remnant purchase. I had to have it.

I have always wanted a black and white striped knit jacket like one. I have a sweater similar to this but I’d really like to make a jacket.


What other jackets do you recommend for me?

23 thoughts on “Sewing for Fall 2013- The Jacket Edition

  1. Brooke says:

    LOL! – “The 80s got me to wear oversized clothes once. Ever since I stopped wearing oversized clothes, I find I actually like how I look. So, oversized stuff, you don’t get to be on me.” Ditto!!! You sound like me!

    Changing the collar of the first pattern should be pretty easy. Just chop the pattern straight down the front and add the back neck piece with a couple of straight lapels. You could just sew an extra wide flap of fabric on your mockup and then draw the shape you want during a fitting. Then turn it into the pattern. =)

    I really like the trench-style coat! Eggplant and magenta – yes! Someday I want a bright green trench but I haven’t found the fabric yet. (I almost found some perfect green wool at work, but it’s $72 a yard!)

    I’m planning to make myself an orange winter coat this year. I just need to mockup up the pattern first. It isn’t a trench but the costumer in me loves what I have planned in my head, hehe. (I also bought some eggplant fabric to make one for my etsy shop too.)

    I love coats and jackets! Can’t wait to see what you end up making!

    • Leila says:

      That sounds like something I can do. Thanks for the collar help. Oh, bright green and orange would be so fun! I’m getting rid of an old navy fall coat just cos I’m tired of not having color in my winter wardrobe.

  2. aem2 says:

    The 80s as a fashion decade is something we should bury and never speak of again. Not only were oversized jackets unflattering, they were uncomfortable.

    I have V8333, which is beautiful but scares me not a little bit. Fortunately, the DC (who designs and makes his own coats because he’s awesome like that) will hold my hand through the process whenever I get up the nerve to try it.

  3. theseedsof3 says:

    I too want to make the Robson, but not sure what color I would do either. I like your eggplant/magenta idea. I think it will rock! I tend to wear a lot of dark red, blues, and greens, so I dunno if I should pick something on those colors, or pick something NOT in those colors. Too may choices, too many commitments!

  4. Andrea says:

    Leila, have you ever made a shoulder princess seamed jacket? The Robson looks like it may be the shoulder princess style. I have found that style to give a better fit with my large bustline/smaller back combo. I’ve found the armscye princess style gives me a weird fit. I took a bust fit class – I wish I could remember the instructor, because she was the one who she’s the light on this for me.

    The Robson in eggplant and magenta will e fabulous!

    • Leila says:

      I have! I do like the shoulder princess seams a lot. yeah, the stuff I’ve made with armscye princess seams definitely make the high bust to full bust difference really over the top.

  5. Sarah says:

    Definitely looking forward to seeing what jacket you make…I have a love affair with jackets when they’re on the hanger but have such a hard time finding ones that fit properly. I’m trying to build up my skills to make a jacket for fall/winter. I looovvvee the Robson coat and would love to try it, but double breasted seems to just not work for my bustier shape. You making it work would be a huge inspiration!

    • Leila says:

      I love double breasted everything so I’m just gonna make it and hope for the best. I also like cropped jackets which I’m told will make me look bigger everywhere. I can live with that. 🙂

  6. Bird and Bicycle says:

    Mccalls has this kinda crazy sweeping coat … I keep thinking it would be the most amazing thing I could tackle. But I would never wear it as it doesn’t get cold here. Maybe Colette’s lady grey… Coats are hard patterns for me ecause I just wear hoodies and sweaters all year. 🙂

    • Leila says:

      Yeah, it sounds like you’ll be better off with hoodies and sweaters. Nothing wrong in that! The best garments are the ones we use a lot. 🙂

  7. sewexhausted says:

    I found myself admiring that black satin twill jacket you made all over again! I have some of that satin twill but don’t know when I will get to it. I also have the Robson pattern and hope to make a few this winter. ALL my girls want one. I will most likely be Robsoned out before I get to my own! Magenta sounds so pretty! And bright! And cheerful for Fall/ Winter. Great ideas. And Brooke’s thoughts sound like they may work for the collar fix. ~Laurie

    • Leila says:

      thank you! I do love that jacket. It was nice how quick it came together, too! I hope you aren’t Robsoned out before you make your own! Oh, no! Kinda nice that your girls want your handmades. My boy likes the simplest stuff I make him and he requests the same pattern in the colors of the rainbow. He’s sweet.

      • sewexhausted says:

        I like that the girls like my handmades too… One of them, who shall remain nameless though likes to “design” and make things different. I keep telling her she needs to learn to sew so she can make her own creations! Your boy does sound sweet! Colors of the rainbow!

    • Leila says:

      I’ve got some stripey interlock I’m eyeing…I keep promising myself that I’ll buy all the things if I just get all the packing done first. 🙂

  8. Theresa in Mérida says:

    I miss jackets and the way they pull together an outfit. Admittedly, I don’t quite get shorts with a long sleeves, but how different are they from a mini skirt and long sleeves? I love the lapels

    I had a reversible silk trench coat in eggplant with a chartreuse lining that I loved. It was some high end brand that I bought used for $10usd. Regrettably,I didn’t bring it south with me. Eggplant is a great neutral, less formal than black but still elegant. The magenta sounds like a great choice with eggplant. You can’t go wrong with a classic trench.

    I used to wear a shoulder pad cami under my shoulder-padded jacket! LOL, talk about overdoing it. I do like a little bit of a shoulder pad or a sleeve head to balance things out but the exaggerated shoulders of the 80s don’t need a redo.


    • Leila says:

      I remember seeing high school kids (when I had just moved to the U.S.- Oregon to be precise) and these kids would wear sandals, shorts and a fluffy jacket! and then go for ice cream during lunch. There I was hunkered under a couple of layers plus a jacket and warm boots. haha

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