The Hubbinator and I met in Portland, Oregon and lived off Belmont street (about 5 blocks from Hawthorn) the year before we moved to Chicago. It was a two bedroom behind a really cool video rental place that had an excellent selection of international films, which we both enjoy. It was also close to the Miracle Theater where I worked and the bus stop that the Hubbinator would go to, to hop a bus and get himself to World Cup where he was Mr. Manager. (I know I’m making an Arrested Development reference when I should probably make some sort of Simpsons reference. So be it.)
It was an easy walk to Hawthorn though, to be honest, I was so busy with my theater and dance life that I rarely just hung out. The Colette Hawthorn is reminding me of all the fun times we had those 3 years in Portland. So much theater work, so many late night movies, so many artists. When I first saw the pattern, it was an instabuy. (I saw it and bought it right then and there. No thinking twice. No waiting.)
For my Hawthorn, I chose a swiss dot voile from Michael Levine fabrics in navy. I love voile. I haven’t actually worked with it a lot but one of my favorite fabrics will always be cotton. I have to say that this voile is airy and perfect for this end of summer heat we’re having in Indiana.
Oh the sweet simple collar. The whole dress is very simple lines. So pleasing to my eye. I bought these bow earrings and saw them as a perfect match for my new dress.
I bought this gorgeous Japanese cotton at Crimson Tate from YUWA while I was at their open sew because I wanted to add something special to the inside of the dress. I originally thought I’d make a belt along with the sleeve binding but I bought a belt instead and used the fabric for a headband.
Here’s the sleeve binding. A friend only asked if I made my dress when she caught a peek of my binding and noticed that it matched my headband. I think that’s the best compliment.
sleeve binding
Details on alterations and construction:
I cut this dress on Friday night and had buttons on by Sunday afternoon. The only way I could manage this was by skipping the muslin process. However, I did add in fail safes so that I could still fit as I stitched it up. I didn’t have a ton of time to work on this dress and I was making it for an event at the Hubbinator’s work so I didn’t do as much fitting as I normally do- something that I’m not minding on this dress. I like the ease and I think it looks nice. I might take out some width and length on my next Hawthorn.
- I started with the size 10 but cut the size 8 shoulders front and back.
- I added 1″ to the bodice front side seams. I ended up stitching on the original cutting line (and I’m glad I had the extra seam allowance so I could do that), giving me 1.25″ more front room.
- I added 1″ to the bodice back side seams but didn’t need it and ended up stitching the back seams about 1″ instead of the given 5/8″- not much of a difference but I could take more out if I wanted to.
- I trimmed off the back armscye to the size 8 which I traced on the wrong side of the fabric just in case- and I was right.
- The skirt I just as a straight size 10 as I don’t have a lot of lower half issues when making skirts.
I used my pinking shears to finish the side and waist seams, bound the armholes and turned up the skirt hem twice and stitched it by machine. All in all, a very quick make since I didn’t spend that much time fitting. I hope my notes help.
What do you think of my Hawthorn? I’m going to be adding it to the Flickr pool for Fall for Cotton since I did end up styling it with a 60s flair and I think it looks a bit like this vintage dress I found on Etsy, especially the collar. What do you think?
I love it! It looks so cute, retro, and comfy!
I especially like all your little details. The headband is a perfect accessory and so fun with the matching binding!
I really like swiss dot fabric too! I recently bought myself some (it’s a bright floral print on white) – I’m really digging your solid navy dot though!
Thanks Brooke. Am I right in the styling…did I get some 60s vibe at all? haha
It’s definitely a ’60s vibe – especially with the headband and the way you styled your hair. =)
I was worried it wouldn’t work cos the shirtdress isn’t exactly it but I tried. 🙂
Your Hawthorn dress is beautiful! Voile is such a lovely fabric. I love the fabric headband with this dress.
Thank you Laura!
This is a lovely version of the Hawthorn – the colour is great on you and I love it with the contrast belt.
Thank you! I lucked out on the belt. I didn’t want a super thin belt nor a super chunky one, either.
Leila this is really lovely! I think the fit is great – it looks so relaxed and streamlined at the same time – I wouldn’t tinker with it too much next time! This pattern hasn’t really grabbed me but the more I see it made up, the more I like it, and yours is definitely one of my favourites by far.
Totally agree about sewing with cotton too. I haven’t done it that much recently and am so looking forward to constructing a dress (soon!) in something well-behaved non-stretchy, cool and straightforward.
Thank you! I’m flattered you like it so much. I swear cotton is one of my faves. The lack of stretch is always welcome in my book. I’m only just coming ’round to liking knits.
BEAUTIFUL! You already know what I think of this dress but I will still make a big public announcement. You look wonderful! I am impressed that you finished this so quickly, as the fit looks perfect on you. Big thumbs up to the pattern for being so great! I love the styling, the earrings (jealous!) and the headband are so sweet and cool. Awesome first dress from your new home ❤
Thank you Clare! It’s so nice to have something made so quickly. I do work well on deadlines. 🙂
Here is your dress, it’s really lovely! It fits you nicely and I just love that Japanese fabric you faced it with. Your headband is so cute, very 60s.
thank you. I really like the texture of the swiss dot. super cute.
Gorgeous. The matching binding and headband is so cute. I love how making your own stuff allows us to do stuff like that! Looks great on you
Yeah, just a small touch that gives it your stamp.
love it! i think you got the fit perfect too! love the headband matching the sleeve binding. definitely a 1960s feel!
thank you. I could totally pull off 40s or 50s, too. It’s such a cute pattern.
I love this dress and you look so happy! I can’t wait to start stitching up my blouse version and then move on to the dress versions! I’m envious you got it made up so quickly.
I was totally gonna start with the top but all of a sudden I needed a dress so there goes that. I can’t wait to see yours.
Cute as can be. You look great in it. Nice job.
I can see it with one of those fabulous fabric flowers we used to wear –a big open rose in red on your shoulder, and a red belt and red shoes. Probably because that is what I wore with a navy dress of mine years ago that I loved and this dress made me remember it.
Keep up the good work.
I like the neckline and collar on this dress. I was thinking if one cut the front solid and put in a back zipper, and added short sleeves, it would make a darling LBD in black velvet. Easy and sassy, but demure.
I love this rose on the shoulder. I’ll have to do that.
And I agree, in black it would very chic.
super cute and I love the polka dot bindings! It looks super comfy.
thanks! it really is comfy. and cool. This heat is nice…in this dress.
Love it! It really is a fab pattern. I have worn both my versions to death this summer. Must get on with a winter version and the peplum blouse.
Ooh, what kind of fabric are you using for a winter version?
So pretty! Love the matching headband, that’s a cute idea!
Thank you. I’m going to have to make another one, it’s such an easy dress to wear.
This dress is beautiful on you! I think the piping is a gorgeous touch and the mount of ease in the dress makes it look really effortlessly beautiful and classic.
Thank you! I think I’ve been overfitting for years now. it’s nice to get complimented on the ease.
Wow this looks great on you! I almost got that same fabric for mine! I am very tempted to get some to make the top and short sleeved version after seeing yours… 🙂
You totally should! Just make sure you use a slip or line it. hehe Ask me how I know. 🙂
Haha, yeah I was wondering about that! Well, gotta learn how to do a lining sometime!
haha. funny thing is that I usually line everything but this time I was like, hey, it won’t be so bad. it’s nice a lightweight but I’ll definitely need a slip for super sunny days. 🙂
Lovely! The swiss dot is very pretty. I bought some vintage swiss dot voile a couple weeks ago. The weather is hot here so I may still make something this month from a vintage pattern. LOVE that Japanese cotton – so pretty – makes for a great binding and headband. Looks great on you! Nice that it’s comfy too!
I could make an entire dress out of that Japanese cotton. It’s amazing. I hope you do get your fall for cotton in. yay
I knew I’d love this on you and I do. It looks so pretty and comfortable and the fabric is just perfect.
Thank you Heather. It’s a nice simple dress for a nice simple me. 🙂
Wow this is really pretty! I am loving the swiss dot, my wheels are turning….
On a completely unrelated note, I grew up in Portland and know the neighborhood you refer to very well. I agree that this dress embodies the Belmont/Hawthorne vibe. Well done!
Thanks! You’re the one I wrote this for. haha I knew you’d know that area.
I love it! The matching headband is great, too. And your hair looks lovely.
thank you lovely! I didn’t know I’d love the headband as much as I do. 😉
Great dress for a ‘quick’ make. I’m with you I love cotton … cotton viole, stretch cotton, cotton twill, cotton sateen, it’s all sooo lovely.
I’ve got a bunch of other cottons I’ll be using all lined up and begging me for a cuddle. 🙂
Oooooh, your dress is beautiful! This pattern was an instabuy for me to, but not so much an instamake… Hopefully soon. 🙂 Navy looks beautiful on you, and the fit is great!
That first photo of you is so adorable. I love cotton too and it is great for our all-year-round warm temperatures in California. The neckline and collar design are perfection. You always look happy in your clothes! We love Portland too btw.
The dress turned out so pretty! And you look so happy wearing it in all your pics. Love the headband! I am still very partial to the fabric too. Nicely done Leila! ~Laurie
Thanks you Laurie. I am pretty happy with it. It came together so effortlessly which is probably why I’m grinning from ear to ear. 🙂