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I was really excited to test the new Sugar Plum dress from Lolita Patterns. It comes as a paper pattern or a PDF, your choice. So, yeah, it looks like separates but it’s a dress! And what a cute dress. The bodice is made out of a lightweight fabric and I used the Art Fabrics voile I bought a couple of weeks months ago. I bought it cos it’s delish to the touch but I had no idea what to make out of it until I got to test this pattern out.

First thing I need to point out about Lolita Patterns that caught my attention was their attention to sizing. They’ve actually drafted two blocks and grade those blocks separately so that the larger block will fit plus sizes better. You know what that means? Less fitting to do! It’s more work on Lolita Patterns’ part and I will thank them over and over again for doing it. Read their post on sizing. I hope it makes you as happy as it makes me. And please let me know what you think.

The skirt is made of a ponte or double knit. I used some left over ponte from my Burda pants. As you can imagine, this dress is super comfortable to wear.

SugarPlum front1SugarPlum back SugarPlum front close ruffles  sugarplum side back

Sugar Plum ruffles 1

I looove this dress. It actually like that it looks like separates but it’s not. I wasn’t totally convinced by the ruffles but I went for them because I wanted to see what they’d look like on me. I love experimenting. Plus, I was in a defiant mood. Here you go, random people who say big chested women can’t and shouldn’t wear ruffles. Muahahaha! Go wear ruffles everyone! They’re fun and pretty and make you feel super accomplished! Seriously. You cut 18 of one ruffle and 4 of another. You’ll feel like a rock star after making these ruffles. It’s the sort of thing you can do while watching Firefly.

You’ll also feel like a rockstar after finishing this dress because the inside is as pretty as the outside. Everything on the inside is finished like a pro and by machine. Granted, altering a dress like this would be a beast because the bodice is lined in such a pristine way but it’s so worth it.

Alterations and Sizing

I traced the size 12 and added a 1″ FBA. I also added a little length, front and side seam insurance which I didn’t end up needing. The pic below is the front bodice and you can see the bit of extra fabric around the whole pattern piece. I needed the side and center front bit of fabric (though you can see it wasn’t much). I didn’t need the extra length.

You might notice that I add these bits of insurance from time to time. I’ll tend to do this if I’m using a new-to-me pattern. I do measure my body in length and width and compare my numbers to the pattern.

Sugar Plum length insurance

I didn’t gather the sleeve but this sleeve is still so cute. It was accompanied by a forward shoulder alteration which I’ll also show you. I’ve used my altered Sugar Plum sleeve head to alter other sleeves and I’m in love. Check out the Fashion Incubator’s post on sleeve cap ease.

Here’s my altered sleeve:

Sugar Plum altered sleeve

My forward shoulder (pic below) required that I move the notches on the sleeve so they would match up. I also took out about an inch out of the height of the sleeve head and curved the back part of the sleeve. Click the image to enlarge it. I do love the fit I got with this sleeve.

Forward shoulder:

Sugar Plum forward shoulder

Sleeve being cut out of fashion fabric. The sleeves are self lined and so comfortable.

Sugar Plum sleeve 2 

I made this dress in June so it doesn’t fit anymore but I’m about ready to make another one. I definitely learned a lot making this dress but the instructions were clear enough that I didn’t get lost.

Can you see yourself making the Sugar Plum dress? Are Lolita Patterns new to you or were they on your radar already? Want to give Lolita Patterns a try at a discount?

Use code sugar15plum to get 15% off the physical pattern
through October 10th!