As you all know, I started blogging for Lolita Patterns. I’ve started the Sugar Plum Sew-Along and as part of that, I wanted to show you how I do a forward shoulder adjustment. On the 27th, I’ll have an FBA/SBA post on the Lolita blog and, from there, continue the sew-along. If you’d like to join, grab the button and come over and have some fun sewing up your own Sugar Plum.
I’ve done this forward shoulder on both my Sugar Plums and I feel like the fit is much better than other shoulders without it. If you find that your shoulder seam is behind the top of your shoulder, you might benefit from this alteration.
What you need to do is move the seam so that it sits closer to the front of your body. I’d start altering in 1/4″ increments. Below you can see me drawing a line below the original shoulder seam. This is for the front. You might need to draw your line all the way across the shoulder. Experiment and see what you need.
The back bodice will need the shoulder seam line to be above the original line. You can also see that I’ve brought up the underarm 1/4″ so that everything is even.
Below you can see me lining up the back and front bodices at the side. I was experimenting with adding 1/4″ to the bottom of the bodice but you’d normally add the 1/4″ to the under arm area. All in all, if it works for your body, it works.
You’ll also want to move the notch to the front of your sleeve. Here’s a post from Christina at Assorted Notions. I’ve linked to her before when I started understanding my need for a forward shoulder alteration. It’s the bit on the sleeve that I found intriguing. You can see in my post when I was testing Sugar Plum how much I changed the sleeve, moving the sleeve head forward where I needed it.
I didn’t do such a drastic change on my second Sugar Plum and I still got a great fit with this simpler forward shoulder on the sleeve.
You will also want to move the notches corresponding to where you are gathering your sleeve head so that your sleeve is gathered evenly.
Heather posted a tutorial on another way to move over the notches. She’s good. Go check it out.
Do you do forward shoulder alterations or do you get a good fit without them?
I’ll be heading back over to Lolita for the sew-along. See you in a couple of days! You could come join me.