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click to go to the Lolita pattern shop

I’m so excited to be part of the Gunmetal reveal! You might have seen other versions. If not, go check them out on the Lolita blog! Here’s the description from Lolita:

Gunmetal

Gunmetal is an edgy dress and blouse with figure flattering ruching and ruffled trim. Made completely out of stretch fabrics, it is surprisingly comfortable while being flirty and fun. This pattern can be used with a variety of unique sheers and laces as the overlay resulting in fun color combinations. View A has contrasting panels with matching ruffles, sheer sleeves, and buttons down the center front. A softly draping circle skirt finishes the bottom of the dress an inch above the knee. View B has a gothic lolita vibe and features ready-to-wear hardware details and faux corset accents. The blouse has a fashionable peplum that finishes at the high hip and the sleeves are finished with clear elastic in the hem.

Fitting

This pattern is made for knits and has a nice amount of negative ease. This is not the pattern company to size down with. It’s already done for you. Big 4, I’m looking at you! I cut the size 8 but cheated at the bust, cutting the size 10 and tapering down to the 8 at the waist and hips. I didn’t want to do an FBA and I think it works just fine without it in my case.

If you do any alterations at the bust, waist or hip, don’t forget to add the same alteration to the overlay piece. You don’t have to go to the trouble of doing an FBA unless you really really want to. It’s possible but it’s a knit and very forgiving. With the larger sizes, the fit should still be spot on since Lolita has a separate block drafted so that you don’t have to do a ton of alterations for shoulders and all that stuff that doesn’t get addressed when other companies just grade up from whatever small size block they started with.

Read more on the Lolita sizing and the blocks they use here.

Another fitting thing I want to bring up is where the peplum/skirt start. On some garments I like to have the waist seam line along my waist but on others I like to let the horizontal seam hit a little lower than my waist. What does that do? I feel like it elongates my short waist and fools the eye. And, yes, sometimes I like to be tricksy like that.

I didn’t have to add any waist shaping to my Gunmetal, again, because it’s got a good amount of negative ease, but sometimes I will have to add waist shaping so you can still see that I have a waist.

For this version, I used a red bamboo rayon knit from Vogue Fabrics and the overlay is a spider web netting that I got from Joanns last Halloween. I made this top during October so technically it’s my #sewredoctober piece. Do you think the sewcialists will let me into the Red club?

red gunmetal side red gunmetal back Red gunmetal front  red gunmetal front close

Both flat and hanging up, I still love this top which honestly doesn’t happen much for me. You can also see how the whole thing can be lined with self fabric. You can also make it unlined- either way works great. Just finish your seams if you won’t be lining it.

red gunmetal flat red gunmetal insideRed gunmetal ruffle closeRed gunmetal close

Sewing it up

The directions are plenty to get you through all the fiddly bits of this pattern. It’s classified as a 2 skull pattern making it an easier one. If all the ruffles turns you off, you can omit them and have a ruffle-free top or dress, too! I’m not new to fiddly sewing so it didn’t intimidate me. If you have any fitting or construction concerns, let me know.

Go get your own copy! Use gun15metal for 15% off your Gunmetal purchase with or without the D-rings. I recommend getting the D-rings! They add such a nice touch. I’ll be doing the Gunmetal sew-along in January so we can all focus on spending time with friends and family!

Lolita Patterns

Until then, I’ll be making another Gunmetal to prepare for the sew-along and because I really want to add long sleeves with ruffles at the cuff to echo the ruffles at the neck and front bodice! What mods would you do on Gunmetal? What colors would you play with? Any D-ring aficionados?

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